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Topkapı place |
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İstanbul
İstanbul Sultan ahmet
İstanbul Grand Bazaar
Topkapı place |
 
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Topkapı Palace constructed by Fatih Sultan Mehmet, (the
Conqueror) in 1478 has been the official residence of
the Otoman Sultans and center of State Administration
around 380 years until the construction of Dolmabahçe
Palace by Sultan Abdülmecid. The palace having around
700.000 m.² area during the foundation years has
currently 80.000 m.² area.
Topkapı Palace was evacuated by the accommodation of
the Palace inhabitants in Dolmabahçe, Yıldız and in
other palaces. Upon abandoning by the Sultans, Topkapı
Palace where many officials resided had also never
lost its importance. The palace was repaired from time
to time. A special attention was taken for the annual
maintenance of Mukaddes Emanetler Dairesi (Sacred
Safekeeping Rooms) visited by the sultan and his
family during Ramadan.
The opening of Topkapı Palace for visits as museum
happened firstly in the reign of Sultan Abdülmecid
(1839-1861). The belongings within Topkapı Palace
Treasury was shown to the contemporary English
ambassador. Later on, it has become a tradition to
show the antics within the Topkapı Palace Treasury to
the foreigners and during the era of Sultan Abdulaziz
(1861-1876), showrooms are made in French style, and
these antics are started to be shown to foreigners in
these showrooms within Treasury. During the period
when Sultan II Abdulhamid was dethroned (1876-1909),
it was thought to open the Treasury Room to public
visits on Sundays and Tuesdays, yet it never realized.
By the order of Ghazi Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, Topkapı
Palace firstly affiliated to the Istanbul Asar-ı Atika
Museums Directorate and opened to public visits on
date of April 3, 1924, then it started to service as
Treasury Chamberlain, after it was renamed as Treasury
Directorate and finally it was renamed as Topkapı
Palace Museum Directorate and it still continues its
services.
Upon the performance of small repairs and taking some
administrative cautions in 1924, Topkapı Palace was
opened to service as a Museum on October 9, 1924. The
sections opened to visit at that time were Kubbealtı,
Arz Odası, Mecidiye Köşkü (Pavilion Mecidiye),
Hekimbaşı Odası (Room of Chief Doctor), Mustafa Paşa
Köşkü (Pavilion Mustafa Pasha) ve Bağdad Köşkü’dür (Pavilion
Baghdad). |
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HAREM
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  The
word harem, as meaning taboo and/or forbidden, had been
used for family concept in the Islamic society. Harem is
the private and prohibited place where the dynasty lived
in the Ottoman Palace. Harem is a rather important complex
in terms of architecture that contains examples of palace
architecture styles belonging to various periods starting
from 16th century to early 19th century, where hundreds of
concubines and haremchiefs that consisted the families of
Sultans lived together.
Harem has approximately 300 rooms, 9 hamams, 2 mosques, 1
hospital and dormitories as well as 1 laundry room. Harem
that displayed a hierarchical development rather than
sistematic burned in 1665 on a large scale. Harem that
survived today has been enlarged with the restorations
after the fire and occacional expansions within time.
General plan of Harem consists of dormitories that
surround the entrances divided by doors one after another,
rooms, pavilion and service buildings.
Being supported by many dynasty palaces, mainly Old Palace,
Topkapı Palace Harem constituted one wing of coverts
kapıkulu staff in accordance with the Ottoman
administration understanding. The concubines that were
taken into Harem used to learn the Turkish-Islamic culture
at best. Thus, a part of concubines that were raised as
wifes for the Ottoman dysnasty used to stay in Harem as
administrative head of servants, whereas the best of them
would be offered to Sultan and constitute the dynasty.
Another part of concubines used to be excluded from Harem
with the condition that they would marry the chiefs at
Enderûn. The hierarchy of Harem that went younger every
year and spreaded the palace culture to the imperial
domain depended on rules. The value of a woman in the
Ottoman palace was related to her ability to give birth to
a child. A concubine that is offered to Sultan would be
displayed at Sultan’s Table and would be brought to
Sultan’s own room if approved, upon a process that
includes the preparation ceremonies at hamam.
The concubine that has relations with Sultan or gets close
to him was called as Gözde. When Gözdes give birth to a
child, they would be allocated a private apartment and be
assigned as Prosperity or Head of Wives. The mother of
heir to throne among those that do not exceed eight in
every section, would be called as Haseki (Official Wife of
Sultan), and had a real leverage as Sultan’s first wife
even she would be listed after The Mother Of Sultan
(Valide Sultan). The princes that were sent to Anatolia as
sancak beyi up to the end of 16th century, used to bring
their families with, including their Head of Wives who
were their mothers. After that point, after the sultanate
turned into old-becomes-Sultan (ekberiyet) procedure that
stipulates the sultanate of the oldest dysnaty man, the
princes were made to live at Palace’s Harem. With this new
system that enabled the brothers to become sultan as well,
the sultan used to form his own harem staff with his
mother, and send the rest to Old Palace.
 The
concubines could not marry the princes not to create
rivals to dynasty, yet would be assigned. Sultan’s
daughters used to marry viziers and paşas (generals) and
live in hanım (wife) sultan palaces in Istanbul, and were
granted with the right to divorce their husbands if they
wished so.
Topkapı Palace Harem Section, which was carefully hidden
from the courtyards where the selamlık (meeting) and
administration functions happened, divides the Harem
residents into 4 groups through stony places stretching
from the entrance of Gate of Carts to Private Room.
The first section at the entrance is allocated to Black
Eunuch Chiefs. After this, Harem’s Common Door follows and
after that, it leads to paved courtyard that is surrounded
by structures where Mother Of Sultans, sultans and princes
live.
Harem Eunuchs
Guarding the women sections in imperial palaces by eunuch,
which is an old tradition that goes back to Assyrians,
spreaded out of Mesopotamia till Chinese and Roman palaces.
The Ottoman Harem also adopted this tradition.
Two groups called as White Eunuchs and Black Eunuchs lived
in the Ottoman Palace. Before, White Eunuchs being Gate of
Felicity (Bab’üs-Saade) Chief were also granted Abode of
Felicity (Dar’üs-Saade) Lordship. Sultan Murad III
(1574-1595) granted this function to Black Eunuchs in
1582. Black Chiefs carried out this function that
completely passed to Black Eunuchs towards the end of 16th
century, by increasing their authorities and influence
until the end of the sultanate.
Black Chiefs (Kara Ağalar)
African boys that are selected from the mid-Africa
generally originating from Ethiopia used to be raised with
a strict discipline after being taken to the Old Palace
and Topkapı Palace. Castrated african kids called as çiçek
used to be trained so that they would apply the Harem
rules after learning Turkish. They used to start their
functions with the name of “Down below (En Aşağı)” and
pass to Beginner Lordship, and within time they used to
promote to higher classes such as Ortanca, Hasırlı. After
a certain period of time, they used to be provided
promotions on their duties in Harem by being given to the
service of Sultan’s Head of Wives and Mother Of Sultan.
Concubines
Black Chiefs and all women regardless of their status were
servants like the palace employees. The training system of
concubines were like that of Converts. 16th century
sources states that there used to be 2 dormitories for
newly recruited concubines in Harem as it is the same at
Enderun.
The majority of concubines that were recruited between
ages 5-16 originated generally Çerkez, as it is also known
about the presenceof Arabian and African concubines
recruited. In addition, the ages of concubines recruited
for various services could be higher. The concubines
recruited were first health examined. The new concubines
were given new names such as Hoşnaz, Safdil, Neşedil
considering their beauty, attitutes and appearances.
The girls taken into the palace were taught Turkish and
the etiquette manners. the first period of these girls at
Harem was called as inexperience. Later, they used to
become concubines, and after that promote to master
apprenticeship called as şakirt, mastership (ustalık) and
constant frequenter class within time.
Because the most of concubines are employed for services,
they were given to general services such as laundry, hamam
heaters, pantry, table, after a short time. The beautiful
and smart ones used to be trained by kalfa women about
reading-writing, sewing, embroidery, playing music
instruments, singing and dancing depending on their skills.
The Sultans did not have relations with all concubines
that were selected and trained for them, and their
departure from the Palace was provided by making them
marry with appropriate people.
The highest ranking of the palace women was called as
Kadın. The concubines who were called as “for Private Room”,
Favorite (Gözde) or Prosperity (İkbal) among those the
Sultan had relation with used to promoted later to
Official wife of Sultan and Head of Wives (Kadınefendiliği)
after giving birth.
I-BLACK CHIEFS STONE COURTYARD
 Black
Chiefs Dormitory in Topkapı Palace had a training place
function as in the dormitories in Enderun Courtyard. These
chiefs’ major fucntions were guard duty, checking the
entries and exits and not letting anyone in from outside.
Kara Ağalar section can be entered through Gate of Carts
that leads to Imperial Council Hall Square. There is an
inscription above the gate that carries the name of Sultan
Murad III (1574-1595), dating 1587. Through this door,
guard place called as Dome with Wheel (Dolaplı Kubbe) and
Sofa with Fountain as well as Black Chiefs Stone courtyard
can be accessed.
This narrow and long courtyard where all buildings of the
system exist is called as Stone Courtyard, since it is
covered with stones. This podimo-stone paved path from one
side of Stone Courtyard to the other side continues
starting from the entrance after Sultan’s big mount on
horse until Horse-Mount Stone before Sofa with Fireplace
also called as Saltanat Kapısı (Sultanate Gate) at Mother
Of Sultan Stone courtyard. The Sultan use to pass this
route on horseback.
All necessary buildings for daily life can be found in
Black Chiefs Avlusu (Courtyard). On the left side after
the entrance, there is a flat that contains small mosques
for praying, dormitories, education place of princes by
Dar’üs-saade Chief and hamam. On the opposite side however,
there are places where accountants, hazinedar black Chief
and cüceler (dwarfs) from high ranking Harem employees
lived.
Common Gate / Sultanate Gate
The section where Sultan and women live can be entered
through a crown door above which it holds verses from
Koran that gives the meaning “Don’t enter the houses other
than those in your possession without permission and
saluting people living there”. This door that seperates
Harem from Harem Chiefs Section leads to guard duty place
to which three main sections of Harem also lead to.
It can be entered to Harem through a crowned symbolic arch
made of “hole marble” as a dome and arch as an open
sahanlık that provides entrance.
Through this door also called as Sultanate Gate, it can be
passed to guard duty place of Harem’s entrance. The door
on the left side of duty place leads to Concubines and
Head of Wives Stone courtyard; the door in middle leads to
Mother of Sultan Stone courtyard where dynasty women and
high ranking admin women live; the door on left side leads
to Goldenway (altınyol) and Sultan and Princes Flat. The
hall with this location constitutes the start point of
places where dynasty and women live in Harem.
 II-
HEAD OF WIVES STONE COURTYARD/CONCUBINES STONE COURTYARD
This area also known as Kadın Efendi or Concubine Stone
courtyard is the smallest courtyard of Harem. This Stone
Courtyard can be accessed through a corridor on the left
side of guard duty place which lets Harem’s Cümle gate.
This corridor had been formed with the wall that seperates
Black Chiefs Section on one side, and Masters’ Flat that
seperates Mother of Sultan Stone courtyard on the other.
There are marble counters on one side of corridor. This
counter is the place where Black Chiefs put the foot that
is prepared at Harem’s kitchen on plates for Harem
residents.
As in other Stone Courtyards, two-staired room arrangement
that faces Stone Courtyard can also be seen here. On one
side of Stone Courtyard where it jions Black Chiefs, there
are hamam, hamam külhanı (heater) and pantry. On narrow
side, there are kitchen, laundry room and bathrooms. On
Haliç side, there is a concubine dormitory with şirvan.
Using the stone stairs on the side of this dormitory, one
can go down to Harem gardens, concubine dormitories and
hospital sections. There are three private flats on two
stairs on the Haliç side of Stone Courtyard that belongs
to Head of Wives.
Kırkmerdiven (Fourty Stairs)
Using the door between dormitory and Heads of Wives Flat,
stairs leads to mezzanine. Mezzanines have been built over
this descent system that is called as Fourtystairs
(Kırkmerdiven). Using Fourtystairs, Stone Courtyard also
called as Hospitals and Concubine Courtyard can be
accessed.
Hamam ( Turkish Bath )
Hamam on Stone Courtyard must have been built to serve old
women that lived there after Hürrem Sultan, the main
Official wife of Sultan of Kanuni (1520-1566), moved here.
Hamam must have been aloocated for use of kadın efendiler,
masters (ustalar), and concubines on different levels. It
leads to bathing sections through a large changing room
with a doom on the top.
Head of Wives Flats
It is assumed that the apartments which belonged to women
of Sultan who gave birth were built during Sultan Murad
III era (1574-1595), around 1585, along with Mother Of
Sultan’s Flat. It is supposed that Heads of Wives lived in
these apartmens and were closer to Mother Of Sultan than
Sultan himself. The plans of these three special flats
that are partially different in their sizes and decoration
are similar to each other. The first flat next to
Fourtystairs gate attracts attention because it is bigger
and has a dome. On the upper stairs of flats, there are
half hanging stairs called as şirvan.
Concubine Dormitories
There are Concubine Dormitories in the section where the
payeli substructure holds Head of Wives and Mother Of
Sultan Flats. Concubines could continue their Harem life
which they started on the lowest floor on higher floors
and higher levels in regards to their abilities and
chances, or after completing 8 years, they would become
çırağ. These dormitories were the places that could
respond to the needs daily life with its wooden şirvan,
light spaces, bathrooms and ablution places in 17th
century when the concubines were the highest in number in
Harem.
Hospital
Around Stone Courtyard, two stair cement concubine
dormitory with şirvan, hamam, laundry room, patient
dormitory, patient kitchen and gasilhane where the dead
were being washed as well as Meyyit Gate where the dead
body of concubines were being taken out, also called as
Hospital or Concubine Courtyard, exist there.
 III-MOTHER
OF SULTAN STONE COURTYARD
Mother Of Sultan Stone courtyard had constituted the core
of the construction group where Dynasty and Harem
residents lived for centuries. It is assumed that
Goldenway which formed on wing of this Stone Courtyard and
some other buildings are the buildings Harem that date
back to first half of 15th and 16th century. This place
turned into a internal courtyard upon construction of
Mother Of Sultan’s Flat and hamams at the end of 16th
century.
Valide Stone courtyard, as a “Life” Stone Courtyard
character in the middle sofa of Turkish house, is the most
significant example of the Ottoman Architecture in this
style. In this sense, it used to gather high level harem
women staff around itself who were the central place of
the Ottoman dynasty and Harem.
Mother Of Sultan’s Flat
This flat was one of the most significant constructions of
renewal and expansion activities in Harem by Murad III
(1574-1599) in 1580s. The special importance and value on
the mother in Turkish families put Mother Of Sultan into
foreground in palace Harem instead of Sultan’s main woman
and the mothers of sultans became the true leaders of
harem.
Mother of Sultan’s Flat Sofa
It is known that this flat with its contemporary shape was
built by Murad III for his mother Nurbanu Sultan. Mother
Of Sultan Flat constitutes an integrity with its hamam,
bathroom and all rooms. There is a stair that connects the
lower and upper stairs on the left of old entrance hall,
and on the right, there is a waiting room. These stairs
lead to sections where the Concubine Dormitories are
located. It can also be said that Mother Of Sultan’s
belongings and high level kahya women were located in
those 5 rooms above Mother Of Sultan’s Flat in upstairs
and hamam külhanı. Across Mother Of Sultan Hall, the door
right across leads to Mother Of Sultan Sofa. This section
that belonged to women section of harem and is the largest
place has a dome.
Through the door on the left side of this majestic place,
it leads to private office room, living room, and bedroom.
The wooden division of this room that reminds baldaken
symbolises the sultanate and power of Mother Of Sultan in
harem. From this section, it leads to Mother Of Sultan’s
prayer room through an arch passage which can be visually
linked through a window with bars. Through the other door
of Mother of Sultan’s Flat Sofa, it leads to a place with
tiles and fireplace. This room and sahanlık before that
also provides passage to concubine and Head of Wives
section in Mother Of Sultan’s Flat.
It leads to Mother of Sultan Hamamı through an entrance of
Mother Of Sultan’s Flat. This hamam was planned as a
double hamam along with Sultan Hamams. The door on the
right side of domed main place of Mother Of Sultan leads
to Sultan’s Sofa through a corridor along hamams.
The reason of Sultan’s mother’s leverage in palace stems
from the importance that the sultan displays for them.
Sultan used to visit her every morning at Mother Of
Sultan’s Flat to show respect and share his daily
decisions. Later, Chief of girls used to come to inform
her about foundations and Mother of Sultan’s business. It
is also recorded that the Gözdes used the visit Mother Of
Sultan here, that entertains with dancers and singers,
listens to Kur’anı Kerim or history book from reader kalfa
after having lunch.
IV. MABEYN STONE COURTYARD SULTAN AND PRINCE FLATS
 It
is located before the section that is between Official
wife of Sultan Flat (Sultana Sarayı) of Goldenway that was
built during Fatih era (1451-1481) and I. Selim Tower.
This section is the closest part of harem to Selamlık, or
Private Room in other words, and fourth section that was
also called as Imperial Sofa where some pavilions were
located, and is directly linked to them.
The difference of Mabeyn Stone courtyard from other
courtyards is that the front is open. Various buildings
surrounds it. There is a courtyard, called as Gin’s
Consultation Place (Cinlerin Meşveret Yeri), in the
direction of Mother Of Sultan Stone courtyard. The highest
floor of this courtyard is Prince Flat. In the same
direction, there is Double Kasırlar on Stone Courtyard.
The courtyard expanded as a high garden.
The sides of this Stone Courtyard had not been filled too
much, but were allocated to the controlled lives of
princes. This place had also been opened to women after
Abdülhamid I (1774-1789) built Favorites’ Flat (Gözdeler
Dairesi) over Goldenway and I. Selim Tower. Sultans had
their private apartments built around hamam and Haliç side
of Mother Of Sultan Stone courtyard. The connection of
this place to Mabeyn Stone courtyard, where they
maintained sometimes a public or private life, was
provided by a courtyard called as Gin’s Consultation Place.
In addition, there used to be places there which were
allocated to princes.
The construction building during the 16th and 17th
centuries consists of III. Murad’ Private Room, Çifte
Hamam, Sultan’s Sofası, I. Ahmed’s Room, Sofa with
Fireplace (Ocaklı Sofa), Sofa with Fountain (Çeşmeli Sofa)
ve III. Ahmed’s Room. These constructions especially
reflect the classical Ottoman taste with their
architectural features and decoration styles.
The buildings that were made starting from Mahmud I era
(1730-1754) display an integrity in terms of style. They
were built in front of Sultan’s Sofa and hamam corridor to
enable the use of hamam. The whole pavilion and all rooms
were designed as it would not permit women to enter, when
Mother Of Sultan’s Flat’s door facing hamam corridor and
the door of Sofa with Fireplace are closed.
Sultan’s Sofa (Hünkar Sofa)
 Sultan’s
Sofa is the largest place in its dimensions located
between III. Murad’s Private Room and hamams. It was
concluded from the written sources and panoramic pictures
that it was built between 1580-90 with its first shape
after III. Murad’s Private Room.
It is known that Harem residents, upon Sultan’s acsending
to throne and in following days, after wearing the sword
ceremonies in tombs in Eyüp, offered their loyalties to
Sultan on this sofa, where Harem’s musical entertainments,
meetings, congratulation and other ceremonies were also
held. Also, delivering the birth to girls or boys, and
celebrationss of Sultan’s daughers’, also known as hanım
sultan, engagements and marriages were held in this hall.
The building with its contemporary look today displays the
restorations and modifications throughout the centuries.
Sofa went through a significant restoration activities
after the 1665 fire. It has survived today with a level
that reflects the rococo dominated ornament style after
the renewal during Osman III era (1754-1757). The name of
Osman III stands on the inscription on the entrance door
of the hall. The walls are covered with golden gilding and
painted wooden cover as well as European tiles (Delf), and
fountains were also added.
The decorations in different styles from different eras of
this place that hosted many entertainments in Harem had
created a very impressive environment in which various
tastes had come together.
III. Murad’s Private Room
 This
pavilion that was built after the point where the natural
floor ends was placed on a gradual structure. III. Murad’s
Private Room, being one of most significant constructions
of Harem as well as of the Ottoman Architecture, was
designed and built in 1578 by Mimar Sinan who was the main
architecture of that era.
Mimar Sinan maintained the functional and decorational
balance, matching the construction’s meaning and shape,
with a classical view in the pool downstairs that he
placed between levels. This pool with water ejector is
connected to a big pool along Stone Courtyard.
Çifte (Double) Hamam
It was concluded that these hamams, that were constructed
as double hamams for Mother Of Sultan and Sultan himself,
were built around 1580s, after completion of III. Murad’s
Private Room. These hamams were built in double hamam
style that was observed in Ottoman architecture.
The obligations regarding apdest (ablution) and cleaning
increase hamam’s importance. Sultan Hamams, with their
locations between Mother Of Sultan’s Flat and Sultan’s
Sofa, display paralellism with the bathing and
entertaining functions in traditional palace hamams. Under
supervision of Hazinedar Master, the bathing, dyeing with
henna, putting scent and dressing of gözde who would be
together with Sultan, Fourthy Hamams of the kids after
birth and joining of Sultan’s Sofa to this busy ceremony
environment prove the importance of hamams in Harem life.
The hypocaust system that is also observed in Roman hamams
constitutes the heating system of these constructions by
continuing underneath Sultan’s Sofa as it was the same
under the marble floor of Sultan ve Mother of Sultan
Hamams.
I. Ahmed's Private Room
Sultan Ahmet I (1603-1617) also wanted to have a room at
Harem carrying his name, Private Room in other words, yet
his room was built before Sultan III. Murad’s Private Room
due to topographic conditions, intensive construction and
limited construction area. It was concluded from
inscriptions of this small and domed room, built on levels
by raising it, that it was built in 1608. Pearled cabinet
doors, recess, marble and tile covering with poems on
reflect the keen character of of Sultan Ahmed I on reading
and books.
III. Ahmed's Private Room
 This
small room of Sultan Ahmed III (1703-1730) in Palace Harem
is located between Sultan’s Sofa and I. Ahmed Odası.
Entrance is available from both places to this room.
These years of full entertainment period were called as
Tulip Era (Lale Devri) in the Ottoman History due to high
interest in flowers, especially tulip. Ahmed III era was
the most brilliant era of a new style in the Ottoman
decoration arts. This style that could be considered as
new naturalist was reflected on all architectural work of
the era as hand art job, plaster or marble embossed design.
The walls of this room that was built in Sultan’s harem
was ornamented with vases full of flowers or plates full
of fruit side by side.
Because of the plates full of flowers or fruits on the
walls, this room was called as Fruit Room, and sometimes
Dining Room. It is also possible that Sultan Ahmed III, as
a famous and talentet caligrapher, might have carried out
his own distinguished works.
Çifte Kasırlar (Summer Palace)
These summer palaces consist of two rooms placed one in
another are built in a way that allows to step out on
Mabeyn Stone Courtyard side of the entrance of III.
Murad’s Private Room. The fact that it is covered with
tile outside and is surrounded by continuous eaves gives
the impression of synchronous construction. However, the
inner decoration shows that they were built at different
times. The adult princes had to live seperate from women’s
section and on mabeyn side. The princes that were not sent
to sancaks in Anatolia starting from the beginning of 17th
century were forced to live among Black Chiefs (Kara
Ağalar), kalfa women and concubines who they commanded.
The first room that was built in courtyard, also called as
Gin’s Consultation Place, to enable to step out to Mabeyn
Stone Courtyard, must have been built as a Private Room
probably in the late 16th or early 17th century by Mehmed
III (1596-1603).
The other big room that can be entered through the door
located on the left side of domed summer palace was most
probably built by Mehmed IV (1648-1687). An interesting
architectural composition was created in both rooms by
adding mezzanines; colored wooden şirvans occasionally.
During the restoration work, the wooden parts are removed
to reveal the original shape of these rooms that are
called as Prince Flat.
Goldenway (Altın Yol)
Goldenway, being the longest, the oldest and the most
important passage, is a vault path along the wall that
seperates Harem from Enderun Courtyard. It is understood
that this corridor, called as Long Path, Sultan’s Way (Rah-ı
Padişahî), Highness Sultan Street (Sokak-ı Hazret-i
Padişahî), before taking this name, had been used bu
Sultans to pass to their flats in Harem in short cut.
The reason that this road with plastered walls and stone
paved floor today was called as Goldenway was because
Sultan used to give golden money to Harem residents that
align on roadside on special days. Goldenway has a
functional and historical importance, since it is the
first construction of Fatih era (1451-1481) and other
contructions after that happened around this corridor.
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